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The
Fly Rod |
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When a fish is hooked the Rod suddenly becomes a fighting tool. The Fly
Rod must be able to smooth out a fly line
so it can land in the desired location. It must be sensitive enough to
receive and transmit delicate impulses, yet strong enough to stand up
to the fight.
Until the mid 1950's, Fly Rods were exclusively made by
the split-cane technique. Since then synthetic Rods have taken over the
market. After a brief heyday of the solid and tubular fiberglass rods,
an era of "high-tech fibers" was introduced as graphite Rods, a development
that is still expanding today.
Thanks to these materials, tapering Fly
Rods have appeared. Their action, strength, and damping ability leave
nothing to be desired. Each Rod bears information as to which AFTM classes
can be used, which makes it easy to put together useful harmonious equipment.
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AFTM RATINGS
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| AFTM numbers describe the weight of a line,
calculated in grains over the first 9.1-meter (30 ft.) of
line and are given as AFTM followed by a number. A Rod must
always be correctly matched to any line, which is used.
This information is shown just above the Rod grip. If the
line is too light it will not flex and load the Rod. If
the line is too heavy it will overload it, making casting
difficult. |
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ACTION
Fly Rods are classified according to their performance or what is
referred to as "action". A fast-action or top action rod has most
flexibility in the top 25% of the rod. Slow action or full action
rods distributes the forces equally along the length of the Rod. In
between are numerous half-action Rods. Most modem Fly Rods are more
or less decidedly half-action Rods. Most modem Fly Rods are built
to a progressive taper or "progressive action", which means as the
Rod is loaded with more line, it flexes lower and lower. For Rods
of comparable length and line size fiberglass is usually the slowest,
bamboo next, graphite faster and boron or boron / graphite the fastest.
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LENGTH
The length of most Fly Rods are between the 7 1/2 to 9 foot
range. Rods shorter than 7 1/2 feet are popular with light-line or small-creek
fly fishers while Rods over 9 feet are usually used for big fish such as
Salmon, Tarpon, and Sailfish.
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WEIGHT
The weight designation of a Fly Rod describes the size fly
line the Rod is designed to cast and not the weight of the Rod. For example
a 4-weight Fly Rod is designed to cast a 4-weight line. Though Fly Rods
range in weight from I to 15, the majority of stream trout Rods fall into
the 3 to 8 weight range.
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PICKING A FLY ROD FOR YOUR FISHING
NEEDS |
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FLY ROD WEIGHT
3 AND 4
5 AND 6
7 AND 8
9 AND 10
11 AND 12
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THE
QUARRY
PAN FISH AND SMALL TROUT
PAN FISH AND MOST TROUT
MOST TROUT AND BASS
STEELHEAD, SALMON, BASS, BONEFISH
STRIPERS, TARPON, BLUEFISH
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FLY SIZE RANGE
28 - 14
22 - 6
16 - 4
10 AND 3/0
2 - 6/0
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GRIP
Though there are many grip styles for Fly Rods a few styles
have become standard and are offered on most Rods. |
The most popular styles
are cigar, half-wells, and full-wells. The cigar grip is often used on lighter
Rods, for a more delicate feel. |
Heavier Rods generally have a full well
grip, which is flared at both ends. The half-well is flared only on one
end and is used on intermediate weight Rods. A front flare provides extra
leverage for your thumb; a rear flare allows room for the reel foot on
uplocking reel seats. |
Select a grip that fits your hand and feels comfortable
when casting. |
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| FLY
ROD REEL SEATS |
| Reel seats vary in design however,
the screw-locking type is the most popular. The reel is attached by pressure
from a threaded ring which forces a knurled ring over the reel foot. Screw-locking
reel seats come in two styles: up-locking and down-locking. In the down-locking
style the ring mechanism forces the reel foot into a receptacle at the
butt end of the Rod. In the more popular up-locking style the reel seat
is forced into a receptacle up and into the bottom end of the grip. On
ultra-light Rods a simple slip-ring type of mount is used to reduce weight
with some sacrifice in stability. This system works but, be sure the slip
rings and the diameter of the arbor on which the reel is mounted match
up with the reel foot. |
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.... AND THE REST OF THE FLY ROD:
The END PLUG is a metal cap found at the
extreme bottom end of the Fly Rod. This is attached to the reel
seat which holds the reel. It is usually made of a strong, light
weight aluminum alloy. On larger Rods an extension butt is sometimes
added to help in fighting larger fish. |
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| The HOOK KEEPER is a metal ring found just above
the grip. When not fishing your fly is hooked here to keep it from
hooking everywhere else.
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The STRIPPING GUIDE or the first guide has three functions;
to hold the fly line to the Rod during casting, to funnel the line along
the length of the Rod when shooting line (releasing extra line to obtain
additional distance in casting), and to distribute the stress of playing
the fish. Because the stripping guide is the first part of the Rod the
line encounters after leaving the reel, it receives a lot of wear. To
reduce the friction, the guide is often made from an abrasion-resistant
material, usually hard chrome or ceramic. Some of the better Rods today
will offer two or even three stripping guides.
The SNAKE GUIDES are the guides located
between the stripping guides and the tip-top guide. These guides must
line up precisely and be spaced along the Rod so as to properly match
up with the taper of the blank. These guides need to be of a hardened
material such as chrome or stainless-steel so they will hold up under
the friction of the line passing through them. If a guide becomes worn
or grooved, it will destroy a fly line.
The FERRULES come in three designs:
spigot type with “male” on the butt section, spigot type with
‘‘male” on the tip section and the traditional nickel-silver
ferrules used on cane Rods. It is important to keep the ferrules waxed
- this keeps them from sticking and reduces wear. Plain paraffin is okay
but, storm candles which contain both paraffin and oil is better.
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FUTURE FLY RODS
In '99 The five-piece Rods that were big news were followed
by 6,-, 7-, and even 8-, piece models. These rods will pack into 15-20
inch rod tubes. More fly fishers now will arrive at their destination
with the Rod of their choice. The down side is that they are a bit pricey.
More companies will be offering complete, good quality,
less expensive outfits for the beginners. They will include medium action
Rods that load easily at short distances. Included with the medium action
Rod will be a reel with backing, floating fly line, leaders, and Rod-
reel case. If you are a beginner this ‘outfit’ would be a
consideration. Some companies will be offering lighter Rods that are more
resistance to on stream damage and offers smoother casting. More powerful,
fast-action boron/graphite Rod design will appear. To allow a more stealthy
approach to fish a Rod with Reel Tree brand of camouflage is now available.
One company is replacing stiff metal line guides with
a thinner flexible nickel-titanium “recoil” snake guide that
bends easily when the Rod bends and then returns to their original shape.
These “slick” guides offer less friction possibly adding a
little distance to your cast. With all that's out there in fine Rods the
choice is not easy but that’s half the fun.
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OUR
SHOPPING SUGGESTIONS
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